Tuesday 20 October 2015

Musings of Wandering Mind

For the longest time, I have had two images stuck in my head. One of Tiger's Nest Monastery and another of Borobudur Temple. One is in Bhutan; while the other is in Indonesia. With my birthday coming near, I knew I wanted to touch one of them. For a change, didn't want to travel alone; checked with few friends, and somehow nothing worked out. 
Did the universe conspire in helping me achieve it? Maybe Yes!!
I saw this ad, by Women On Wanderlust (WoW) a quite famous all women travel group, for Bhutan. The group has some very exciting destinations on its list, and I have always been fascinated and interested in them. Especially their Facebook page, which I think not only captures the travels but is also quite witty; and posts some inspiring things on women. 

However, liking, admiring and ... traveling with them is another thing. To be honest, I am not a very social person. My work makes me interact with people non-stop, round the clock. Hence, taking a break means - spending time by myself; talking less or better not talking at all; interacting with only a chosen few. And to travel with a fixed itinerary, then to top it an all women group... I wasn't sure I would survive that. 

The urge to visit Tiger's Nest was strong, hence, asked for the itinerary. Bhutan being a small place, WoW had almost the perfect plan to cover it - 90% similar to how I would cover it with my own plan. So far so good... finally decide to book it. Fate loves to play games - when I call to confirm my interest - come to know it's sold out! But I did make it.. thanks to some last moment cancelation. 

20 women including the coordinator from WoW - made the gang for Bhutan. 

This is the first time I must have traveled with so many people. Even my family trips have a max head count of 6 to 7! The group had women from all age groups, <10 yrs, women in 20's, 30's, 40's, 50's and 60's. Some were professionals, some retired, some homemakers, some freelancers. Some married; some single; some single mothers; some married but with no plan to be a mother; some free from the family duty (husband & children) and finally focusing on themselves; some widowed. Some escaping husband, some escaping children, some escaping parents, some escaping mundane routine, some escaping work.... but all exploring themselves. Giving time to themselves as they all realised how easy it is to forget oneself in everyday chaos. 

Women have it tough... am not saying that men have it easy. Just to put it better, we all have our struggles. Even the millionaires. Our experiences in life make us naggers, cribbers, warmer, friendlier, carefree and much more... These women in my group were all that. Everyone had some dominant personality streak which would come out in spurts. The cribbers couldn't help themselves, just as the pacifiers would jump in at the drop of a hat to soothe the ruffled feathers. 
What was interesting was to see the life from their eyes, from their viewpoint. 

"The great difference between voyages rests not with the ships, 
but with the people you meet on them."

What was regular to me, was odd for them and vice versa. I learnt a lot... about how not to let the family clutter you, some kick ass responses to regular things in life. What also really warmed me was no one batted an eyelash or frowned on my single status. Some advised me to never marry, some wished me luck on finding the one, but almost all told me never to settle down because that's the society norm; in fact I even got advice on the legality of single motherhood in India and IVF. 
This left me wondering how our Indian society is changing... or is it only for strangers. Would they have the same advice for their daughters or their sisters. I don't know about that. All I know is that they let me be, which is what matters.

I wasn't forced to interact when I wanted silence, I didn't have to adhere to anyone's moods. If I needed help for anything, I got it. In all very non-judgemental, yet very supportive. 
I briefly saw the world from almost 15 different perspectives and it enriched my own. Made me create a wider frame for myself, adjust my filters better.  
Was I alone? Was I in a group? 
Nagarjuna's catuskoti can surely be aptly applied here.

Frankly, I didn't expect 20 women to behave like this when put together. I don't know how the other groups of WoW bond, but here made some new friends, some cool memories. Cheers to that. “You do not travel if you are afraid of the unknown, you travel for the unknown, that reveals you with yourself.” 
We all should travel more, travel alone, wander alone in a group, especially women. 

Thursday 8 October 2015

Bharat Ek Khoj (Discovery of India) Title Track Decoded

Baader-Meinhof phenomenon - a word I recently learned means Frequency Illusion. Which in turn means say for example - you see a movie with fields of daffodils in them, the next day you chance upon a poem on them, a few days later you notice an apartment named The Daffodil or someone sends you daffodil flowers or you overhear a conversation with them as topic! That's, to say your brain picks certain patterns or selective attention or to put it simply - you keep encountering something and with every encounter you become more aware of it.

My frequency bombardment with Bharat Ek Khoj title song happened with the clearance sale at Om Book Shop. I entered the shop to buy some cool books for my 19-month niece, to only notice that they had some major discounts going on. While surfing, I came to the section of Vedas Decoded, Vedas translated etc... beautiful leather bound books at good rates. As a child, I always thought of reading the Vedas in detail (I still do!).. though at that time my practical side took over and told me that they would be just another addition in my library.
This is when I randomly picked a book on Rigveda (English translation) and flipping through verses in it, only made me think of Bharat Ek Khoj title song. Few days later, friends are discussing their fav. childhood serials like Spiderman, He-Man, Chanakya (my fav) when another mentions Bharat Ek Khoj and we all agree we loved the title track. And now a week later, GarbageBin does a cartoon that mentions it too.. which made me search the song and understand it better.

I have loved that song forever, I remember in my pre-teens, my sisters & I trying to decode the meaning of the song, discussing it. We didn't know back then that it was inspired by Rigveda Book 10, Hymn 129 - also known as Nasadiya Sukta or The Hymn of Creation that has been translated, explained by scholars forever and still continues.
Surprisingly I remember my childhood impression of the song, where I marveled on the lyricist talent! (Yes, I had a funny childhood where decoding existential questions kept us busy) In my naivety, I would wait for the title song lyricist name to appear, which it never did! (Now I know why) The songs discussed here should be the work of Vasant Dev as he is acknowledged for all translations from Sanskrit and for lyrics.

The scope of my blog or even my mind (lol) can't really decode the song - which for centuries has attracted the attention of philosophers across the world. To imagine this was written 3000 years back or more or later (which remains debatable) - but definitely a  few centuries old and has questions which the science keep proving right every day. Well - that is one thread of Indian Philosophy or ancient Hindu texts that one can go on forever. Here am sharing the text, translation and few audios that are the clearest clips that I found on Net and can be added to one's playing list.

To begin let's hear it first. Thanks to Archives.org - this was the clearest, most crisp rendition of the recording that I found. (Made into a small video clip by me)



The title track starts with chanting in Sanskrit - that are the first two lines from the 14 lines that make Nasadiya Sukta. The rest is a translation of remaining 12 lines of Sanskrit in Hindi. 

नासदासीन्नोसदासीत्तादानीं नासीद्रजो नो व्योमापरो यत |
किमावरीव: कुहकस्यशर्मन्नम्भ: किमासीद्गहनं गभीरं ||


(Using translation by Prof. Raimundo Panikkar here, what they mean - can be pondered for lifetime)

At first was neither Being nor Nonbeing.
There was not air nor yet sky beyond.
What was wrapping? Where? In whose protection?
Was Water there, unfathomable deep?

These same lines as sung in Sanskrit are then translated in Hindi and the Hindi portion starts.

सृष्टी से पहले सत् नहीं था, असत् भी नहीं
अन्तरिक्ष भी नहीं, आकाश भी नहीं था
छिपा था क्या? कहाँ? किसने ढका था?
उस पल तो, अगम अतल जल भी कहाँ था? 

Here, I would like to bring attention to the fact that that the whole song was translated & sung by Bharat Ek Khoj team. The song posted earlier in the title track only captures two paras. See below for the whole song. Thanks to YouTube Sharbhanu for this rare piece. (Like the earlier clip, audio is picked from Youtube and made a lighter video)  



The song goes like:

नहीं थी मृत्यू, थी अमरता भी नहीं
नहीं था दिन, रात भी नहीं
हवा भी नहीं, साँस थी स्वयमेव फिर भी
नही था कोई कुछ भी, परमतत्त्व से अलग या परे भी।।

There was no death then, nor yet deathlessness;
of night or day there was not any sign.
The One breathed without breath by its own impulse.
Other than that was nothing at all.

न मृत्युरासीदमृतं न तर्हि न रात्र्या अह्न आसीत्प्रकेतः ।
आनीदवातं स्वधया तदेकं तस्माद्धान्यन्न परः किञ्चनास ॥२॥


The 5th & 6th lines of 14 line sukta, or the third couplet of 7 couplets that form The Hymn of Creation - few claim have been sung by Discovery of India team - but I could not find any version of that. However, still sharing these lines though they not in recording shared on this blog. 

अंधेरे में अंधेरा-मुँदा अँधेरा था
जल भी केवल निराकार जल था
परमतत्त्व था सृजन-कामना से भरा, ओछे जल से घिरा, 
वही अपनी तपस्या की महिमा से उभरा ।।

Darkness was there, all wrapped around by darkness,
and all was Water indiscriminate, Then
that which was hidden by Void, that One, emerging,
stirring, through power of Ardor, came to be.

तम आसीत्तमसा गूहळमग्रे प्रकेतं सलिलं सर्वाऽइदम् ।
तुच्छ्येनाभ्वपिहितं यदासीत्तपसस्तन्महिनाजायतैकम् ॥३॥

From 4th - the song follows the regular pattern 

परम मन में बीज पहला जो उगा
काम बनकर वह जगा
कवियों ग्यानियों ने जाना
असत् और सत् का निकट संबंध पहचाना ।।

In the beginning Love arose,
which was primal germ cell of mind.
The Seers, searching in their hearts with wisdom,
discovered the connection of Being in Nonbeing.

कामस्तदग्रे समवर्तताधि मनसो रेतः प्रथमं यदासीत् ।
सतो बन्धुमसति निरविन्दन्हृदि प्रतीष्या कवयो मनीषा ॥

फैले संबंध के किरण धागे तिरछे
परमतत्त्व उस पल ऊपर या नीचे?
वह था बँटा हुआ, पुरुष और स्त्री बना हुआ
ऊपर दाता वही भोक्ता, नीचे वसुधा स्वधा हो गया ।।

A crosswise line cut Being from Nonbeing.
What was described above it, what below?
Bearers of seed there were and mighty forces,
thrust from below and forward move above.

तिरश्चीनो विततो रश्मिरेषामधः स्विदासीदुपरि स्विदासीत् ।
रेतोधा आसन्महिमान आसन्त्स्वधा अवस्तात्प्रयतिः परस्तात् ॥

सृष्टी यह बनी कैसे? किससे? आई है कहाँ से?
कोई क्या जानता है? बता सकता है?
देवताओं को नहीं ग्यात, वे आए सृजन के बाद
सृष्टी को रचां है जिसने, उसको जाना किसने? ।।

Who really knows? Who can presume to tell it?
Whence was it born? Whence issued this creation?
Even the Gods came after its emergence.
Then who can tell from whence it came to be?

को अद्धा वेद क इह प्र वोचत्कुत आजाता कुत इयं विसृष्टिः ।
अर्वाग्देवा अस्य विसर्जनेनाथा को वेद यत आबभूव ॥

And then the famous para...

सृष्टी का कौन है कर्ता? कर्ता है वा अकर्ता?
ऊँचे आकाश में रहता, सदा अध्यक्ष बना रहता
वही सचमुच में जानता, या नहीं भी जानता
है किसी को नहीं पता, नहीं पता, नहीं है पता ।।

That out of which creation has arisen,
whether it held it firm or it did not,
He who surveys it in the highest heaven,
He surely knows - or maybe He does not!

इयं विसृष्टिर्यत आबभूव यदि वा दधे यदि वा न ।
यो अस्याध्यक्षः परमे व्योमन्त्सो अङ्ग वेद यदि वा न वेद ॥

While doing this post, I was sharing the song with a friend, and he happened to mention listening to it might just put him in a trance! which is interesting - as isn't that what chanting also does. This song is a simple clear chant, and that's why may be it induces relaxation and awareness at the same time, pure pleasure.

Wednesday 7 October 2015

Rendezvous With French Alps & Annecy

There goes a saying “All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.”
Nothing could be truer for my friend and me when we decided to explore a quaint town of France called Annecy. 
Thanks to my subscription to various blogs and websites such as "Places to see before you die" or "Must visit places in your bucket list" "10 most beautiful villages in the world".... so on and on... (you get the idea).. my friend and I were mesmerized by the pics of Annecy that we saw on Google.
Yes, go ahead... Google "Annecy" images and you will know what am talking about!

Our trip to France was more about exploring the beauty, nature, and just soaking in the local culture rather than tick off the "to see places". Hence, we zeroed on this place, after Paris, as our second stopover. 
From Paris to reach Annecy - took the TGV till Lyon - from Lyon another train till Annecy.
The trains in France are spot on time. Not even one minute late! unbelievable for us.
Usually for transit, there would be ten minutes in between to change the station and we would always wonder what if we missed the train! but the ticket sale counter would always tell us that you wouldn't and it's fine. Only to realize later what they meant. It's smooth, convenient and efficient.

From Lyon to Annecy - am at a loss of adjectives to be used. We were in the train and hence, could not capture the pics.. there is a huge vast never ending mountain lake... where you see the boats sailing, people doing various water sports... better than one's imagination or any movie! We crossed this lake to land in Annecy and start our search for locating the B&B with which we had made the booking. Oh boy...was that some task! Apparently the hotel was a little away from the main town.. that is Hotel "Ace Annecy" had limited bus services .. what an ironical name! 
We figured our bus won't arrive for another 40 minutes or so... and that gave us time to take a quick walk of the village. It's quite a small one, and in 30 minutes one should have walked through all the lanes... Hotel Ibis is right in the center of the town and a good choice to stay if one is planning Annecy. The town is pretty, the day we landed was a local music festival and a lot of young guys, gals were sitting around with their guitars .. singing, playing music. While at few food joints, in their outside sitting area, rock bands with mini sound systems were performing. It was very lively and seemed perfect with the river flowing right in the center of the town, people laughing, playing music .. surrounded by beautiful flowers and greenery... no matter where your eye went. 

We had to step out of a live dream to concentrate back on reaching our hotel. Turned out the bus we were waiting for didn't go the route we wanted to. We decided to check with more bus drivers there.. and it was quite a scene. In no time, we had these three to four bus drivers, all with their maps out... talking in rapid French.. discussing how to help the two "oh so lost girls". For some reason, since we were enjoying watching their conversation so much, and music in the air that we too weren't taking the taxi and letting it be. After a while, they mutually agreed and packed us on a bus. They didn't even charge us! that was super sweet... and after 3km.. dropped us on this bus stop, from where we were supposed to walk only a bit.
Turned out .. it was almost 1.5 km walk... we lugging our luggage.. yet not sure if we in the right direction... got again helped by some locals. I think .. two people lugging their luggage...with mixed emotions of laughing, crying etc.. in the middle of nowhere do stand out! Some guys from the neighborhood who were out chatting helped us with the address and by calling the hotel for exact location details. Seems we were on the right path. All quite a tussle.. but it was fun!
On reaching, were more than happy to find that the place was really nice. Compact, neat, clean and perfectly comfy. Thumbs up for Hotel Ace Annecy. Once you figure the bus routes.. its super easy and fully recommended. If you plan Annecy and this hotel, just ask them to mail you the right bus numbers. 
While checking in... we had the "secret destinations" moment. Girl At Reception (let's call her Nelly) 
Me: "Hi, Can you help us with what all one can explore here in Annecy."
Nelly: "Ah, which part of Alps you want to explore?"
Me: "Alps!!! you mean we are near the Alps!"
Nelly (gives me and my friend one long funny look): "Yeah, you came to Annecy for that."
Me: "No, we came for the village!" (then rapid mumble) "We knew Alps is nearby but not this near! I mean...we didn't think much... we thought we will figure out once we reach... and blah blah" 
Nelly: "Oh then, then you can explore the church, the market, and walk to a small mountain nearby"
Me: "No, No, tell us about the Alps!!"
Nelly (opens a big huge map): "Ok, let me see... where can you go... you are here only for two days, and one for the village and in the other half day...hmmm.. let me think..."
My friend & I (in chorus): "Forget village, we will cover that... tell us the best part of Alps that one can go to"
Nelly gives us some options... and then we are like if you had a day where would you go..
She confidently points to a dot called "Chamonix Mont Blanc"

Now, that is a name my BFF had texted me while I was in Paris .. that I should definitely explore. I had looked at it briefly on the internet and after seeing it a part of Alps.. had really not considered.. as I was like.. I am not even going towards the main Alps.. this won't be possible in this trip.. and Viola.. here it was ... in front of me.. 
Needless to say... the first thing the next day we did was ... take the train to Alps! 

Place from where changed train for Chamonix
Again we had to change two trains to reach Chamonix Mont Blanc. The second train was a tiny one that goes slowly but quite uphill. Had the toy train sort of charm. While crossing the Alpine town of Annecy and entering Chamonix - we were again struck by the lifestyle of farmers there. Merc, BMW, plunge pools for every house, the tiny villages yelled out riches. Such a stark contrast to our countrysides! feels sad...pinches one to the core... but a truth of this sort usually does that.

Chamonix is surrounded by Italy, France and Switzerland. No wonder the moment we landed, we found the place to be quite touristy. Buzzing with tourists, every corner we thought we heard a different language, quite a few shops had great collection, great place to buy souvenirs - the kind you will not find easily except in an Alpine town - such as horn whistle, carved knives fit for a Viking collection and awesome cool stuff... which sadly we couldn't buy any due to shortage of time.
This is a place for at least one night stay for sure! don't miss that if you head here. Had we known - we would have planned accordingly. A day trip does no justice to this place.

We were surrounded by cable cars! After strolling through the town, we decided at end moment - why not... let's do it! The tourism office after realizing the "short" time we had, suggested us the nearest one - which turned out to be Le Brevent. They told us to take the road uphill and to be fast to make it! Get Set Go time for quick good uphill exercise.

Le Brevent Station
Again amazed at the efficiency with which they work. It took us a moment to gather how they operate as once you punch in the ticket, getting on the gondola lift is your own task. In India, we are so used to people helping at every step, and here we were taking off from the platform to this car cabin in air, meant a small jump... we looked around if hopefully we are doing it right! to realize that was the only way... things running by themselves. That's what technology is for.. after all!

Journey to Le Brevent is in two parts. One gets off from gondola lift at Plan Praz 1999m to get onto another cable car which takes one to 2525m.

When one changes cable cars midway - the halls of the stations are lined with historic stuff which is really something. To see vintage pics of men and women exploring these heights when one didn't even have good protection from snow or roads made. To reach these heights in wooden cars.. almost akin to sleds makes you wonder on human spirit!

To amaze one more - some people start the trek from Le Brevent to walk all the way to Aiguille while some end there and while some are passers-by. When we visited - the summit seemed under construction and a small portion could not be accessed. However, we barely noticed that, as we went around the summit and soaked in the panoramic view of Alps. Cannot be put in words.

We were so lost in Alps - and my travel partner who excels in missing trains, buses, flights... for a change saved us! She was like "Hey, what time is the return train" only to realise we have 40 minutes to make it!. and we were at 2525m lost in the beauty of the Alps and Alpine lakes!
And then the cable car wouldn't leave the summit till its full - we were in soup! ran non-stop from the base of the station to Chamonix railway station. Needless to say - again a sight! we had kind people stepping on the side and giving way to two (decently) crazy running girls ... well well.. we did make it. I bet, had we also not.. we would have cried a bit on missing it.. but might have stayed a day more there happily... who knows.
Chamonix has lovely food, even loads of good veg options as apparently it's quite a busy town and frequented by people from all over the world. A must stay place for at least two days!

The next day we explored Annecy before taking the train and landed doing my fav activity - explore the local grocery market.

Apparently every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, there is a market where the locals come with their produce. It has a very old world charm to it. It being a Tuesday, we were lucky to have experienced it.
Post that, we bid adieu to Annecy, but can say this safely, a piece of heart got left with Alps. Will visit that part again someday!